Have been using a Firefox extension called Stylebot to modify how my browser displays Lemmy's CSS elements to me. Bit fiddly and clumsy, but working well enough, and the first few changes were a major improvement.
Seem to recall spending as long if not longer tweaking with the appearance of old.reddit.com via RES to get it to my liking.
I'd like to see more color settings. The default colors do not have enough contrast and are hart to read in some cases like the blue on gray.
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