Apparently PRS already took it to another level by threatening an employee for singing to herself at the store she worked at

http://news.bbc.co.uk/...

Crushed In Time

A point and click in the same vein as There Is No Game by the same studio, that came out recently and that I haven't seen people talk about at all, unfortunately already past its introductory offer

Carbureted or not, it certainly helps if either the manufacturer or the owner doesn't put on a super loud exhaust, I own a bike with a relatively quiet exhaust to the point I've gotten multiple offers from family and relatives to have it swapped to a louder exhaust, and they don't understand when I tell them I absolutely despise that shit

I bought a new laptop with 16 GB of DDR5 (8 GB soldered and 8 GB socketed) as it was super cheap for an 8840HS, and was planning to buy a 48 GB SODIMM for 120€ but held off on it for multiple reasons, thinking "it can wait and I can make do with less memory for now"

Yeah that 48 GB stick now costs 500€ which is just 50€ short of the entire laptop...

Alec in his own video mentions that the issue isn't that the Americium decays, but that the electronics themselves age and fail, which applies to both the ionization detectors and photoelectric detectors.

This is one of the things you just don't wanna mess with, as such a failure is completely unpredictable, and from what I know some manufacturers are even beginning to make detector units with non-replaceable batteries, intended to be replaced whole when the battery dies after years of runtime, to make it impossible to keep using a detector after its rated lifetime.

That actually probably explains why bikers do it the most since there it seems like on most bikes the swap can be done in less than 30 minutes as the exhaust system is small and self-contained and easily accessible

T568B is the one everyone uses while T568A is the odd one.

I don't get what's particularly bad about T568A though? I was told it's just plain worse than T568B for anything faster than gigabit and I swear I never saw any store bought cables using it.

The Reddit hug of death is when someone posts a link in a big community and thousands of people visit it, generating so much traffic at once that, while legitimate, ends up having the same effect as an actual attack does of overloading a website and causing it to become unavailable. Has nothing to do with the Reddit app being hot garbage.

On their own homepage? still won't stop me tho

I'm not sure if I'm weird or what but for me it only complained about me having a non-standard name and address and that I didn't have enough funds in the Steam wallet it kept trying to use.

I guess I just got super lucky that I got the transaction to go through after only a minute of trying, a literal minute before the announced 10 am Pacific time opening.

My comment ended up in a Tinkernut video back when he was all the rage in the Youtube tech space

While Wine by itself won't have that support, there is work being done on Wine-on-FEX to run x86 Windows apps on ARM Linux, being funded by Valve as they plan to use it on the Steam Frame, so it's closer than you might think.

I highly doubt it's going to need a supply that can do at least 9V to exit shipping mode, at least I haven't yet seen a device behave like that. I more so think that's what power supplies Valve suggests to use if you want to play and charge simultaneously, that being said I believe actual power usage is going to be somewhere around those 27W at max so the battery doesn't discharge, with 45W being a buffer to charge the battery while in use, though that's still just a wild guess.

I don't believe that because this isn't about capacity calibration, but more so that the battery voltage is almost constant between about 20% and 90%, though varies by battery type, and no matter what, the controller can't exactly know how much the battery is actually charging and discharging so it has to guess the current state. I've seen this happen on a Dell XPS laptop I have from work, I manually set it to limit charging to 80% since the built in "Primarily AC Use" mode cycles it around 95%, and it doesn't do the occasional recharge to 100% by itself, so about once a month it would jump from whatever percentage it was at to 7%, even from 80%.

I'll add since to me it feels like that's your misunderstanding, that mileage actually means fuel efficiency, not how much distance you actually drive, and so you'd ideally want as high of a mileage as possible.