Hardwiring a DAC module to a repurposed laptop board, Y/N?

a month ago by haverholm to c/budgetaudiophile

I'm going to set up a simple, local digital music player out of the internals from an old laptop I have lying around. Yes, I could have ponied up €80-100 for a used Rpi, but I'd rather get some more mileage out of the old hardware, plus I like to tinker.

The player is probably going to run Daphile, and will sit between the USB HDD housing my digital music collection and my stereo amplifier. No streaming required to other rooms or on the go at this time, just a straight, wired connection into the living room speakers.

The idea is to yank the motherboard out of the laptop casing, preserving as many ports as possible, and putting it into a slim customised cabinet instead. It'll probably be fugly in the first version, but like I said — I like to play around with things.

There are two issues though, and I want to solve them in one go if I can. The laptop board only has a ratty 3.5mm audio port — and I'd rather build a DAC into the music player than add two separate new boxes to the stereo setup. So,

  • has anybody tried hardwiring a DAC module directly to a laptop motherboard?
  • if not, does the perversity of the idea somehow tickle your creativity to offer a solution?

I suppose the DAC will also need to draw power from somewhere, so suggestions on that part are also welcome.

What DAC do I plan to use, you ask? At this point I'm undecided. I'm tempted to hack one together myself, but that may introduce too many wild cards into the equation. Alternatively, a simple prefab board with RCA connections. Happy to hear your suggestions on that front, too 🙂

fuckwit_mcbumcrumble 4 points a month ago

There's nothing stopping you from soldering to the back of a usb port. But why? You could probably get a 180 degree adapter that only sticks out and inch and then loops back inside. Then if the DAC dies it's not a pain in the ass to replace. And it's not like usb ports go bad just sitting there.

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haverholm 1 point a month ago

Very good point. The board has 3× USB-A v3, not bad for a portable its age (it's from 2013).

I'd thought about reserving at least one USB for storage, but there will still be ports to spare. Otherwise the specs say there are 4 SATA connectors inside, it should be fine.

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SpikesOtherDog 2 points a month ago

What is your laptop board? What outputs does it slay have? The most simple suggestion of using USB of the most reliable. Thunderbolt to pcie is a thing.

Next option is to use a mini pcie slot.

I'm interested to know if you can get pcie out of m.2.

Anything beyond that and you are pushing the boundaries of impossible.

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haverholm 1 point a month ago

Good suggestions, thanks a lot!

The board is a 4th gen i7 coming out of an ASUS X751LN, released in 2014 so PCIE is v2.0. That could be a bottleneck, I suppose.

I thought USB might be a weak point, and I wanted to skip some links in the chain, but you're right about reliability. I was going to reserve a USB slot for storage, but it looks like there are plenty of SATA connectors inside. Fingers crossed they're up to it.

Re your followup post, looks like this model has the lite version of ASus' "audiophile" SonicMaster technology... Can't tell how much of that is speaker improvement, but fingers crossed there's a good little sound chip at the root of it.

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SpikesOtherDog 2 points a month ago

Regarding maxing out the USB, at what bit depth are you running? Do you plan to saturate the throughput above 30 Mbps? I could see this being an issue if you were using the same controller for disks.

Speaking of throughput and storage, you will see a tenfold increase in speed over SATA. You will have many less data collisions as well. If you plan on making this an appliance instead of a mobile device, then you should host all your media on another device, tbh. Your network interface is still faster than USB 2.

Finally, if you already have the board exposed, there is a chip on the same side of the board as the memory and processor. It is in the corner, near what appears to be the 3.5mm Jack. You should be able to find a data sheet on there and see what capabilities the chip has. If you are lucky, you may have access to the raw outputs for rca. Actually making use of those is beyond me, however.

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haverholm 1 point a month ago

Thanks for following up.

Last thing first, I found the sound chip and identified it as a Realtek ALC3236. It's listed on a lot of sales sites that claim to have data sheets. It seems they all link to alldatasheet.com, which only has ALC3246 onward AFAICT. I'll dig on, but at a glance it feels like a dead end.

I don't think I'll have to worry about load on the USB connection; 99% of my music files are still mp3, so it should be nowhere near megabytes/sec? Once I've replaced more of it with lossless audio that may change, but for now I think I'm good.

As for the built-in SATA connections, I think the specs oversold the number a bit. Looking at the mobo I can find only two; one for mounting the system disk, and one for the optical drive. From what I've seen the latter would be noticeably slower than needed for a hard drive. So unless I find a good PCIE to install an NVME disk, I'm probably stuck with USB for now.

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SpikesOtherDog 1 point a month ago

I'm not an audiophile, but I have a basic understanding of circuitry. I initially started looking at the PDFs on all datasheet since similar hardware usually has the same features. After frowning at the pinouts and my morning coffee, I realized I didn't really know what I was looking for.

It turns out that a DAC is an external sound card and both cables are for unbalanced analog.

That said, you might want to start with a 3.5 mm to RCA adapter, but not because I think it doesn't matter. My reasoning first is that (per link) the purpose of the DAC is to get the audio away from the noise of the PC. My thought is that the component is far enough from the rest of the machine that it might be okay. The second is that you are listening to lossy MP3. Try it, and see if you feel it needs improvement.

To reduce interfere, try putting adhesive thermal pads over both sides of the board and cover a little larger than the components in that area. Cover the outside of the thermal pads with aluminum foil. Tack a wire from the shielding to a convenient ground, like the housing of a USB out.

If that doesn't work, then I advise the DAC.

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SpikesOtherDog 2 points a month ago

I already commented once, but look at the spec sheet for your sound chip, if you have a discrete one. It's possible you might have untapped potential there.

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corsicanguppy -1 points a month ago

hardwiring

Hard-wiring

Can we remember what the small dashes do?

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haverholm 2 points a month ago

Thanks for assuming English is my first language. I'll take that correction as a compliment.

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paraplu 2 points a month ago

It is my first language. Hardwiring with no hyphen is fine. It was even perfectly happy to be swiped into the keyboard

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