The prints are shinier so I guess there's a better heat flow in the hot end, especially at higher speeds.

But my goal was mostly to replace the stock hotend with a well known and well regarded design.

The stock one has a flaw with PETG, I'm not sure if it's the material or the temperatures but it makes the nozzle creep down. Very slowly at first, leading to bad looking or failed prints and horrible first layers and constant z-offset fiddling, until it suddenly and very forcefully and catastrophically drives itself through the build plate or the print.

I could not get the BTT EDDY to work at all. I struggled following BTTs guides for hours and nothing worked.

Cartographer was like 40 minutes including the flashing the unit to klipper.

I've got https://www.printables.com/... on the top and back (as they're the panels that didn't fail, although the top's a bit droopy as I printed it in black, then put the printer outside on a sunny day so the fumes would blow away when doing some ABS printing before I'd set up extraction for indoors). If you're printing that yourself, I'd recommend making the screw holes bigger, as the STL has them the right size to tap an M3 thread into instead of the right size to pass an M3 screw through.

I had some spare insulation foam that fit in the gaps in the lid, and lined the rest with a roll of reflective-mylar-backed polystyrene insulation I had lying around, so that helps keep more heat in.

When the panels that failed failed, I just bought some 4mm plywood for £4, drew and cut out some rectangles the same size as the STEP files Sovol released for the printer said they'd needed to be, and drilled some holes where the CAD file said the screws needed to go (plus an extra bonus hole in the wrong place by accident) and a slit to pass the reverse Bowden tube and filament sensor wire through.

The doors are https://www.printables.com/..., which I paid a local man with a laser cutter £30 ish to do in 4mm acrylic.

I also printed a top-hat in ABS once I'd got the enclosure reliably hot enough to have ABS not just warp itself to oblivion. I wasn't going to risk wasting time doing it in PLA after half the enclosure panels I'd made with it had failed. https://www.printables.com/... I added some extra holes for heat-set inserts for an air filter, although in the end, I realised it was better to just extract the fumes as some would inevitably leak out the enclosure.

To extract the fumes, I got some wood and made a panel I could fit over a window to attach an air duct, then I got a cheap mini greenhouse and cut it up so it fit over the whole printer so I could connect the other end of the duct and a fan. If the duct fan is always sucking air out of the tent, then fumes that escape the enclosure don't go into the room, but the hot air in the enclosure mostly stays in the enclosure, so I don't lose heat like I would if extracting directly from the printer.