James Hoffmann and Lucia Solis’ Fermentation Project

11 days ago by godot to c/coffee

godot 12 points 11 days ago

My kit came from Brass Horn in Murfreesboro, Tennessee. I’ve tried to get in on James’ large scale tastings in the past, so I’m glad I got a crack at the last one.

I’ve cupped coffee before, but tasting four of the same beans processed differently and roasted the same is delightfully novel. I’ve just done an initial round of tasting and some of them are remarkably different.

The London team mixed up the bags, which makes me feel seen.

I’m familiar with Lucia Solis from her podcast, which I enjoy a lot and offers great perspective on coffee from a manufacturing side. It gets as deep as any coffee podcast I’ve heard.

Edit 1: Just finished the evaluation and grading process, which was fascinating. I found the coffees to be discernibly different but not in ways that were easy to break down 1-5. But the entire process, with as many people as took part, was incredible!

I can’t blame James for not planning to do this again; with how difficult and costly I assume this process is I’m shocked it happened once, much less multiple times with me catching the last one. Everyone responsible executed it beautifully. If James or Lucia attached themself to someone else who handled the logistics I would be there.

Edit 2: A few final thoughts.

One, the fruit and the terroir are paramount. Manipulation after picking uses the building blocks already present from the farmer. I knew that, but I will be able to point back to this tasting as the most stark possible example. No base flavor absent in the mechanically washed coffee was present in the others.

Obviously darker roasted coffees can exhibit roast flavors. Those have their own value, but in third wave/specialty coffee that’s usually as a compliment to the bean’s natural flavor.

Two, and this one surprised me, the native yeast produced something incredibly polished and similar to the saccharomyces inoculation. I’m aware of our many ambient microbes, but I expected a clarity or focus out of the more heavily manipulated coffee. Not the case.

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BurntWits 7 points 11 days ago

Very jealous! I missed my chance to get the beans unfortunately. Enjoy it on my behalf.

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godot 6 points 11 days ago

Thank you, I did!

I hate to rub salt in the wound but it was absolutely incredible.

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BurntWits 4 points 11 days ago

I’m glad to hear it. I bet it was great.

What did you learn, if anything? I’d love to hear your experiences.

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godot 5 points 10 days ago

The one thing that surprised me was how effective the natural wild yeast fermentation was in producing a great cup of coffee. I’d assumed the naturally fermented coffee would have a less defined character, but I didn’t find that to be the case. All three 48h ferments added different complexities to the machine washed, but similar degrees of complexity.

Maybe there are coffees or terroirs where specific inoculations would allow for dramatic improvement. Perhaps one region, or even just farm, has a microbial environment that doesn’t suit a specific coffee, and just the right inoculation would have a transformative effect. But that might all be so linked to varietal selection and regions that grow “good” coffee maybe there aren’t. If a region has ambient microbes don’t work well for fermentation, is there any incentive to spend millions trying to fit a round peg in a square hole when we know regions where coffee grows well?

Lucia did also speak at some length about the use of inoculation to optimize yields, shelf life, and consistency, so inoculation from a business perspective. In a way that’s interesting because coffee for me is almost purely a luxury rather than a commodity. I am perfectly happy for farmers to care about coffee as a commodity, I think farmers deserve good quality of life, but I’m personally interested in fermentation for how it makes the most enjoyable cup possible.

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BurntWits 4 points 10 days ago

Very interesting, thank you for taking the time to write that out! I don’t have much experience with fermented coffees but I’m definitely interested in trying some. While I’m a bit disappointed I couldn’t take part in this experiment, I’m glad you could, and are able to share your experience.

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