The printer won't park the nozzle by itself to let the layer cool down, but you can trick it into doing so by adding a purge tower or somesuch. It will waste some filament, but the alternative of a g-code script to park and wait will still have issues due to oozing and losing pressure in the nozzle.

Alternatively, printing multiple parts would also allow for more time per layer.

The minimum layer time setting is just the time until the slicer tries to start slowing down, but the minimum speed will still dictate the actual layer time. And lowering minimum speed also doesn't help as the nozzle then spends more time near the part, heating and softening previous layers.

Going to submit my probably-not-a-puzzle-game-game: rhythm games. The game tells you exactly what to press and when you're supposed to press it, it's just up to you to actually press the buttons. See: DDR, Rhythm Doctor.

Note that there are rhythm games that have more decision making like crypt of the necrodancer (rhythm roguelike)

It could be tidally locked to the sun too. Then days would truly cease to exist, you'd just have a hot side and a cold side.

Astronomy just seems to be full of terrible backronyms. To the point that there's a list of them: Dumb Or Overly Forced Astronomical Acronyms Site (or DOOFAAS)

Not directly answering your question, but if you haven't already you should take a look at the end of life disaster recovery repo.

Wouldn't it be 2^7 copies by the end of ante 8? Since the negative copies also spawn one. So the mult would be 1.5^128 which is x3.46e22

Obtainium lets you install FOSS programs directly from the developers source. You can get updates from the github/gitlab of app developers before they get uploaded to F-droid.

Are the filaments still in their original packaging and if not, how were they stored? The main thing with old filaments is how much water they've absorbed from the environment, with older filaments stored in high humidity environments causing issues for print quality.

If your filaments have been stored sealed in original packaging, they'll probably print like new. If they've been stored in an airtight container they'll probably also be pretty good. You can also just give them a shot and see if you're happy with the quality they provide.

If they've been stored open on a shelf, it isn't necessarily over for them though. Look up guides on how to dry out filament. There's a few products you can buy that do it too, but if you have a printer with an enclosure and heated bed you can use that as an oven to bake out your filament.

I've got a few filaments that have been sitting for over 6 years and after baking out they print absolutely fine.

I believe it's a Contributor License Agreement

Like JayleneSlide mentioned, those elements aren't actually live as pictured, that's the outer casing. But even if they were live, they wouldn't arc at that distance.

A general rule of thumb for arc distance in air on earth is 1000V per 1mm. That means that each nut would have to be 0.24mm apart from each other (assuming 240v, it'd be 0.12mm or about 0.004 inches in a 120v country) to start arcing.

Once the arc starts, that distance can increase. This is because arcs will ionise the air, creating a lower conduction path for further arcing. This will continue until the hot ionised air rises away from the conduction path and gets too long to sustain the arcs.

But in any case, those nuts will never arc for a second reason; if they were live they would be dead shorted to each other anyway through the metal case that they're bolted to.

Yes, it really is that bad. We have a resin printer at work and it has been banished to a different room due to the resin fumes. The table it sits on is perpetually sticky, and we go through twice as much IPA postprocessing the prints than we use in resin

Sunshine and moonlight are open source implementations of nvidia's game streaming protocol they created for the nvidia shield. You can use it to remotely use your computer from your phone, not just for games. But of course the primary application is game streaming. As long as the game can run on the host (sunshine) computer, you can remotely play it on the client (moonlight) device. I've used it to just launch steam in big picture mode and then select what I want from steam.

Clickspring is currently recreating the antikythera mechanism using period accurate tools and technology, which is low tech if you consider that it was high tech for the ancient greeks.

If you really don't want to spend money, there's always GNU Octave. Sure, it doesn't have the thousands of matlab toolboxes, but if you're running code from 40 years ago it shouldn't need those anyway. I wrote a couple of scripts recently and then rewrote them slightly so that they would be compatible with octave.

Powering the laser takes 300 MJ but the actual laser power (the energy in the light) is only 2.05 MJ. The rest of the energy is lost to heat and other inefficiencies. If the laser could be created with 100% efficiency then the input energy would also be 2.05 MJ.

Nobody tell banks about fortnights

Near the bolt holes joining the two halves, you can see thin strips going across that overhang gap. Those eliminate local sagging without needing support material. The part could have been flipped 180 instead, but then the outer edge rim would be unsupported.

I mean, you can grind your own mirrors, how hard could it be? (Spoiler: very hard)

Cataclysm: Dark Days Ahead. Zombie survival roguelike, forked from the original cataclysm by whales. Also check out Cataclysm: Bright Nights which is a fork of CDDA that makes it more gamey like the original, and less like you're playing 2d arma.

It already exists... sort of.