I am in! Thanks

Thanks man, you inspire me to do these kind of mods. And of course, it would not have been possible without the adapter you designed.

I use two pairs of vice grip pliers, one on the head and one on the bezel, with some leather to protect the finish. Heating the bezel up by dipping it in some freshly boiled water should make it easier.

Using this method I have removed many bezels (TS10/SP10 Pro/FW1A Pro) uneventfully. Removing the tail is another story though, because the leather just keeps slipping on the smooth parts of the tube/tail.

From reading the Yinding thread over at BLF, there seems to be quite a large variation in tint measurements, both positive and negative duv. Someone measured a duv of -0.0067, so I guess I won the tint lottery.

Looks good, I found that pink gives a little bit of fluorescence vibe like UV when you shine it on colourful objects.

And it looks like everybody's photos are in the wrong orientation. About half the photos in my last post (my first Lemmy post) were anyway.

Impressive!

I think it is a good choice, even if you just use the crappy reflector from the FW1A Pro. I played around with that reflector very briefly and just raising that reflector a little bit will tighten up the beam from the Yinding.

I just need to have aux though, so I won't be using a reflector.

Thanks man! When this mod is complete, the light will have your T1616 adapter inside of it.

Thanks. This is my first time trying it and I like the tint. Have you tried the warm one before? I also got one in cool white which is quite green and disgusting.

I love them, but with the availability of the T1616 adapter, I feel like I need to push them all to the limit and have 3 colours for each light, even if the colours are the same lol.

Here is a video of it in action. And another.

The KR1 SFT40 still has a bit more candela. The hotspots are similar in size but the Yinding has much less spill.

Perfect soldering as expected. I can't help it but my OCD has made me notice that you have the red and blue wires swapped on the aux board, not that it matters in this light.

Also is that moonlight level? The lowest few levels acted weird before you disabled dynamic underclocking. I have been doing some experiments myself, with dynamic unclocking enabled and disabled. I ended up making a new smoother ramp while keeping it enabled.

Btw, what happened to your anduril2 fork? It is no longer visible on GitHub, did you make it private?

That’s the correct order

Stupid me, you are right. I can't tell "R" from "B" from the label on the actual board. I think I swapped all of mine on purpose because I wanted the sequence of colour change to go from outside to inside. Again, not that it matters, because none of mine are RGB lol.

Thank you. I hope so too, and high CRI!

I just saw this posted over at BLF (credits go to koef3 and Simon from Convoy).

The tint of that sample is at or above BBL. Fingers crossed for some rosy ones when they are actually released. Though I would not use an apheric lens to make a square beam out of one. And the reflector options for 5050 LEDS in the FW1A mean that it won't be as throwy as a CULPM1 in a smooth reflector.

Yes and no. While you can use the aux in all the strobes with the latest firmware, there are still only 2 brightness levels (a hardware limitation), and not all of them work like you would expect.

At the moment:

• You cannot ramp up and down, there is only a high mode
• Candl mode and biker strobe are just constantly on in high mode and the brightness cannot be changed
• Party strobe (low mode) and tactical strobe (high mode) work
• Lightning mode partially works (alternates between off and high mode at random intervals)

Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?

@TacGriz I saw that you were looking for a throwy TIR for your FW1A, how about an aspheric lens? My mod is in progress but I think it looks quite promising. From preliminary testing, the beam is nice and round with the round-die emitter. But the emitter is magnified so clearly such that the uneveness in the phosphor can be seen on a white wall. Though it won't be seen when used as a thrower in real life.

Thanks, and I am jealous of your pcb designing skills, I want to learn that one day.

Excellent! Thank you so much.

Yea I don't own one yet, but it should be around 5.6mm to 5.7mm.

I can try making a version with the LEDs closer to the 3535 cutout

That would be great if you could, thanks.